2017-02-28
Nada Giuseppe Winery's family pride

Words: Henry Yuen

Nada wines, crafted with tradition, passion and family virtue, are limited releases.
“Economy of scale” is an appetizing verve in the business world. Most of the time, entrepreneurs want to build a big enough operation to achieve the level of efficient utilization of resources in order to minimize fixed overhead costs, thereby allowing manageable fixed infrastructure expenses . To them, small operations are not desirable. Its ability to absorb the high costs is too limited to render healthy profits.

In the wine industry, however, this business model may not always hold true. Bigger operation does not necessary guarantee success. It has been proven time after time that smaller family wineries, the so called owner operators have the passion, the experience and vigilance to overcome challenges. Being so close to where things happen, winery owners can easily make quick decisions when adversity happens.  Having to deal with board members and layers of management and . not only delay the decision making-process but in coming up with the most practical and appropriate solution. Family strength and traditional virtue belonging to small operations will never be outdated or replaced by machines and board meetings. At harvest time, once the weather cooperates, the whole family, young and old, knows the drill. Joining force to pick the grapes and kick start the process is a natural response, something programmed within when they're born. The need to hire outside labour is quite limited and employment issue, if any at all, will be minimal. 
     
Nada Giuseppe Winery is one such family-oriented winery. Located in the Piedmont region of Italy where Nebbiolo grape is the dominant varietal, Nada lies in Treiso, a small town with only 600 inhabitants. It is in one of the four villages in the Alba area where intriguing Barbaresco DOCG wines comes from.  Treiso is so tiny and closed-knit, everybody helps each other out. The 22 acres family-run winery is a multi-generation operation. They farm in their own two vineyards named Casot and Marcarini which apparently are the two most priced vineyards in that region. The entire family works in the vineyards where grapes are hand-picked and sorted. Quality reserve wines are made according to their own wine culture and selection criteria. There is no board meetings, no high or low levels of management to answer to. Wines are crafted consistently with family tradition without consulting modern equipment and lab science. Everything is done through experience and attention to details. In case of problems, the issues are examined, talked about and solved in a timely fashion.  Without wasting any time to process, analyze and consult the high level managements, time management is at its best here. Genuinely good wines with unique characters are made. Their wines are true to the roots with the best expression of the terroir of Treiso.

As opposed to large scale and modern farming, economy of scale is a term they do not speak of. Nada has no big staff, no heavy equipment to ease the harvest process and no advance technology to tackle farm issues. It is basically hands-on farming with watchful eyes and constant attention to details. Letting their embraced land, the soil and Mother Nature to lay the foundation for the wines. This indeed is the ultimate way of crafting wine that put human effort, experience and nature into the bottle. It’s hard work well-done that we can taste and appreciate.   
                
Tasting notes:
The Langhe Nebbiolo D.O.C. 2013 is 100% Nebbiolo with 12 months in large French oak vast of medium toast, providing the ruby red medium to full-bodied structure. On the nose, it expresses the aroma of berries and dry plum with a hint of herb and toasted spices. On the palate, there is substance on entry with cherries and blackberries on the backend to provide a juicy finish.
The Barbaresco “Casot” D.O.C.G. 2012 is also 100% Nebbiolo.  Aged two years in large French oak cask giving it the level of softness and cedar aroma. Red fruit is prominent on the nose with a floral note. On the palate, there are flows of ripened berries; the finish is marked with pleasant earthiness and subtle casis. It’s a serious and opulent wine worth cellaring for 5 to 10 years to allow it to reach its prime .
Kicking up a notch is the Barbaresco “Casot” Riserva D.O.C.G. 2009. The bouquet is lingering, lined with tender aromas of black current, licorice and dry prune. This wine is full of intensity and concentration with a smooth and well-rounded finish. The extra time in French oak and in bottle enhance the luscious of this cellar-worthy wine that will improve big time over the next 5 years. Yet it is sensationally ready to drink if you can’t wait.







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