Beyond Chopsticks 以希飲食網

Le Parisien 751, Denman Street, Vancouver. www.leparisien.com 604-687-1418

All of a sudden, almost every foodie in town is talking about Le Parisien!

Could be because owner John Blakeley has been showing locals and visitors that he knows what he’s doing when it comes to serving divine French cuisine. His first restaurant, the cozy Pastis Bistro on W. 4^th is no doubt the perfect epitome.  Could be the food in this brand new Le Parisien, Blakeley’s 2^nd bistro is every bit as good as what everyone is raving about.  After visiting Le Parisien one evening, we are both convinced that the authentic French cooking prepared by Chef Tobias Grignon and his team more than meets the demand of the very savvy, sometimes harsh Vancouver diners.

Located where the beloved Café de Paris was on Denman, Le Parisien reminds us of the casual, welcoming neighbourhood cafés spotted here and there in Paris. The unpretentious and pleasant décor indicates that you can walk into the room in shorts and sandals.  For those who enjoy strolling in the nearby Stanley Park, Le Parisien is the ideal eatery to end the afternoon and begin the evening with a delectable and relaxing home-style French meal.

Favourite dishes we each had a few, but two things we agreed upon that evening: how unassuming and homey the food and the plating style and how friendly, efficient the serving staff were!  Some of the dishes were so hearty and country-like; we used our hands and mouths to do the talking.

We both are big fans of liver, but when the smooth Smoked Chicken Liver and sensational Foie Gras parfait, along with irresistible Pear compote and Toast points  placed side by side to the full-flavoured Potted Duck Rillettes on a wood board was set in front of us, we exclaimed! What a perfect way to start a satiable repast. That totally reminded us of the platter of home-made appetizers we find on the kitchen table at my mom’s!

Two styles of Oysters played homage to the gorgeous BC oysters. Oyster Rockfeller with bacon, leeks and crème fraiche and Oyster Beignet with ginger apple remoulade were served on the same plate.  With the right note of crispiness and tenderness all in one bite, Henry moved to steal all the Oyster Rockfeller and left me mesmerizing with Oyster Beignet whose ginger apple remoulade kept singing to my palate; may I say, very happily!

The Boudin Noir (blood sausage) and Cassoulet de Castelnaudary (duck confit, bacon, sausage and cannellini beans) were devoured by Henry in silence. I did the same with Braised lamb Gnocchi.  Honestly, who could resist the soft yet elastic, succulent yet firm gnocchi?

Henry, who usually has a broken sweet tooth, tasted and loved the velvety Dark chocolate mousse.  His attempt to share the rest with me failed, but he managed to keep on digging into the platter of Citrus parfait, Calamansi curd, Blueberry preserve and burnt Meringue which I hoped was all mine to indulge.

Stephanie Yuen

Let me tell you about this take-out joint inside Empire Centre off No.3 Road in Richmond. My buddy Jacky runs a photo studio there, so I visit this place more frequently than any other heavily-promoted malls in the same stretch.  Empire Centre probably has one of the smallest food fair inRichmond but most of the food stalls are gems.  I’ve tried the HK style breakfast, the BBQ duck, the Claypot rice there and enjoyed all of them thoroughly.

Amongst these food outlets stands this tiny vegetarian take-out joint, a very ordinary looking stall that I do not pay much attention to, probably because I have no desire to buy take-out vegetarian food, until  recently.

The other day, while I was having a tea break there (Hot YinYang Tea with a toasted spreaded with butter and condensed milk) , the constant flow of customer leaving the store with bagfuls of take-out food caught my eye. The next thing I know, I was standing there talking to Ivy Fang, the chef and the wife of the husband and wife team behind Evergreen Vegetarian House, a name notorious to Asian vegetarians and vegans, restaurateurs and chefs who get their vegetarian food supplies, and neighbours who become regular customers, for Evergreen’s home-style, healthy and honest food products.   

The first thing I find out was that Evergreen Vegetarian House has already been in business for some 25 years.  They used to locate on Main Street(near E.23) which was demolished and replaced by townhomes three years ago, when they moved to where they are now inRichmond. The place is so much smaller that Ivy does a lot of cooking at home. The take-out menu does not offer a long list of items, but those on it are the most sought after classic vegetarian goodies. 

On the counter was a tray of Jongzi (sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves) stuffed with mung beans and mushrooms, some still hot and soft to the touch.  I saw a few wrapped plates of cooked something placed around the kitchen corner so I asked what they were. “Customer orders,” Ivy explained, “These are braised Kaofu with cloud ear, mushrooms and bamboos.  We only make them when the orders come in. Many customers call to order first, they know we have a small kitchen.” meaning that not everything is on sale on a regular basis!  “But we make the kaofu, from scratch. They are in the cooler case there, anyone can buy them.” The voice belonged to Mr. Fang who was standing behind Ivy and working on some paper work.  He said in a very firm tone.  “We have the best! Ivy is so particular, so stringent, she would not compromise for anything less.” He gave me examples of how Ivy insisted on using only the best flour, vinegar, sesame oil and soy sauce (fromJapan). “She tried and tried different products until she found the best one. Anything that comes out not looking good, she throws out!” Mr. Fang continues. No wonder Evergreen Vegetarian House supplies to a lot to Chinese vegetarian restaurants, and many Mandarin restaurants who orders  mushroom rolls and Kaofu. Ordern even come from the East and down South.

Soon enough, there is a block of kaofu in front of me.  If I don’t tell you, you probably think that these are mini wheat loafs – golden brown, fluffy, and with a shape that look like beautifully risen bread! 

So I take a couple jongze and a kaofu loaf home and make a vegetarian dish, and cook a dish with mushroom, carrots and bak-choy with it for dinner.  For someone like me who only consumes the required shares of vegetables, legumes and fruits, the kaofu is indeed a pleasant surprise.  It has a mild nutty flavour with an al dente texture and surprisingly moist and enticing.  Even my meat-indulging family – my husband and 2 sons, love it.  I cut the two jongze into 1-inch logs, pan-fry till the outside is crisp and viola, the logs are gone in 3 minutes!  Got to buy more next time.

 Evergreen Vegetarian House:

Empire Centre Food Court,

4540 No. 3Road, Richmond

604-879-3380

Stephanie Yuen

You have no idea how elated I am to witness Chef Clarence Ma and the British Columbia Chefs Association Dragon Culinary Team taking centre stage at the ‘Dragon Feast of The Century’, where hundreds of Canadian chefs and delegates gathered, as a capturing part of the recent CCFCC Conference 2011 programs.

What a milestone for Chinese culinary development inCanada! 

With a magnificient dragon ice-carving as the centre piece, crafted onsite by the Principle of Shanghai Institute of Hospitality & Culinary Arts Master Gui Sheng Zhang, shining in the dining room, the luncheon kick off with a pulled-noodle demonstration.  Executive Dimsum chef Garley Leung of Dynasty Restaurant here in Vancouver magically turn a chunk of dough into strands of noodles in a flash. And then the Dragon Feast begins.

16 Chinese chefs from local restaurants team up to prepare 7 east meets west courses, each one an epitome of the chefs’ culinary craftmanship and brilliant teamwork, just take a look at the menu: 

A double-up appetizer dish: Drunken Squab Breast and Arctic Cha Nanjing Style

Dungeness Crab & Lobster in Jade Purse

BraisedFraserValleyDuck Breast, Empress Style

Tenderloin Teaser in Filigree Cup

Yin Yang Steamed Eggplants

Seafood Siu Bang (Savory pastry)

Longevity Date Cake (Jelly-custard cake made with dates)

For those who could not make it to this one of a kind lunch combining Canadian products and authentic Chinese culinary arts, the menu may not tell you what those beautifully plated courses are.  But for those 500+ guests, the Dragon Feast is an eye-opener, a palate-gratifier and most of all, a precious opportunity to embrace the notorious Chinese food scene of Vancouver.

Bravo to Chef Ma, the host of the Dragon Feast and the BCAA Dragon Culinary Team of 16 chefs! They are the true ambassadors who worked so hard to present such a wonderful meal to showcase to the chefs of the world the different regions and styles of Chinese cookery in a grand manner.

Chef Clarence Ma and Marcus Von Albrech t welcome everyone to the Dragon Feast

What’s next for Chef Ma who implemented, planned, assembled and hosted the Dragon Feast?  “I am working on a Red Seal program for Chinese chefs,’ says Chef Ma, “This is my vision and my mission!” For someone who is a restaurant consultant, had been a Culinary Instructor for many years, a mentor to many young chefs and restaurateurs since he first stepped foot in Vancouver, BC in the late 1970’s, he has never stopped believing that culinary arts has no language and geographic boundaries, that Chinese chefs can and should reach the rest of the world in terms of culinary culture and enjoyment. 

Stephanie Yuen

I’m not a hamburger fan, possibly due to the mess I make every time when I bite into the burger while struggling to hang on to the stack with my small hands.  The result is often discouraging, only the patty and torn segments of the bun end up in my mouth while everything else drops onto the plate or table.

Fortunately for me, there are those inviting mini-burgers they call sliders! 

Petite like canapés, attractive like delicate sandwiches,  a lot easier to manage for ladies, these cute sliders have the look, the meat and the fixings like burgers, but more enticing and easier for the stomach! For hungry souls, grab a few more, be creative, have some fun with different toppings and sauces!

So when President Choices threw their first outdoor summer party to kick off their 2011 Summer Tour, I was so there, on time!  You see, President Choices does make great sliders using beef briskets, which give the sliders the juiciness and good texture, and at a great price too ($6.99 for a box of 18).

But boy, what greeted me was a colourful, eye-catching, outdoor party created by the President Choices caravan made up of a beverage station, a BBQ station and an Ice-cream truck. A real Canadian caravan of yum I say!

At the BBQ station, besides sliders served in mini square ciabatta buns, there were mini sausages tucked in cute and fluffy sliced mini buns, along with all the trimmings and sauces. There were coleslaws tossed with Asian dressing; Moroccan couscous salad  mixed with dried fruits and nuts, and Middle Eastern kofka lamb mini-skewers.  Yes, these gourmet sandwiches may be mini, but they are full-blown delicious and so easy to handle!

Of course I dropped by the ice-cream truck and helped myself to a couple new flavours and fell in love with the pink lemonade one and the chocolate icecream sandwiches!  What a sweet and cool way to enjoy a summer party!

President Choices Summer Tour is visiting Extra Foods/Real Canadian Superstore all summer long.  You can log on to www.pc.ca for details.

What I have to do now is make sure I stock up enough brisket sliders, mini-sausages, the buns, salads and ice-creams during the Canucks and Lord Stanley meets!  See you at the Summer Party!!

‘Everyone’s welcomed’ Metro Vancouver Summer Tour schedule

May 28 Sat 11 to 4 Real Canadian Superstore, 7550 King George Blvd, Surrey

May 29 Sun 11 to 4 Real Canadian Superstore,333 Seymour Blvd, North Vancouver

June 2 Thur 2 to 7 Real Canadian Superstore, 8195- 120St., Delta

June 3 Fri 2 to 7 Real Canadian Superstore,2855 Gladwin Road, Abbotsford

June 5 Sun 11 to 4 Real Canadian Superstore, 19851 Willowbrook Drive, Langley

June 9 Thur 2 to 7 Extra Foods, 32900 S. Fraser Way, Surrey

June 10 Fri 2 to 7 Real Canadian Superstore, 3185 Granview Hwy, Vancouver

BBQ tips from President Choices Executive Chef Tom Fillippou

• Allow the BBQ to heat up.
• Prep your BBQ station – make sure everything you need is within reach.
• Never mix cooked and raw meat/seafood together, do use different sets of utensils.
• Be patient, make sure the grill is hot enough before you start cooking.
• Different meats/vegetables requires different cooking time and grilling methods.
• Do not keep flipping the meat until one side is cooked.
• Do not put on the sauce too soon, brush on the food just a few minutes before serving.
• When grilling fish/seafood, use high heat.
• This barbeque season, MINI is the key.
• Make sure you clean the grill every time you finish barbequing by wet clean first, then when it cools down, dry-clean with pads or cloths.

Stephanie Yuen

Lunch was over 2 hours ago, but the aroma of garlic, rice vinegar and chili flakes still lingers in my mouth, triggering the palate to fall back again and again into the satisfying moments earlier of biting into slices after slices of al dente Dao Xiao Mien.

What is Dao Xiao Mien?  Well, that’s the direct phonic translation of thin slices of dough; both the slicing and the dough are done by hand. The place is Legendary Noodles on Main Street, between King Edward & E.26^th), a small eatery with a capacity of no more than 30.  A second Legendary Noodles is located on Denman, near English Beach, similar size with similar décor; even the menus are quite similar.

The tiny kitchen stays at the back of the Main Street restaurant, big enough for a stacked-up prep counter, a small noodle counter that faces the dining room, the 2 chefs and the stoves. If you stand up in your seat and watch, you can see the non-stop actions there: The waitress dropping off orders and yelling out special requests, the chef who tends to the noodles is either pulling noodles on the counter or slicing noodles. If you come closer, you can see how he holds up a big piece of dough, glides on the top with a square-shaped knife and how the slices fly from his knife and drops right into the pot of rumbling water in front of him. The other chef works with the wok the finishing touches, including pan-frying onion cakes and pot-stickers, and boiling dumplings.  Between the two of them, bowls and plates of delectable are passing through continuously. 

Mr. Lee used to be the one standing in the kitchen looking after all the culinary aspect of things. As the owner and still the chief chef, he now takes on a more managerial, less laboured role. But he teaches the new generations well, the always full dining room tells no lie.

Lunch was shared by Henry my husband and me.  He ordered the Lanzhou Lamb noodle soup and opted for the hand-pulled noodles.  Mrs. Lee who looks after the dining room told us the stock is a long-boil soup made with lamb meat, that’s why the sweet, wholesome flavour with such a clear colour.  As a noodle fan, I do enjoy their hand-pulled noodles and helped myself to a bowlful.  In the soup were shredded siuchoy that worked wonderfully with the delicate hand-pulled noodles, with chunks of plain lamb meats, nothing else seemed needed to make this a wonderful meal!

My must choice at my every visit is, well you guess it, the Dao Xiao Mien. Silky as a wonton wrap, chewy like ravioli and tender as marshmallows, these hand-sliced noodles goes well with anything!  Today I opted for a vegetarian dry noodle mixed with red pepper, broccoli, spinach and bean sprouts and bean soy sauce.  The Chinese name of this dish is ‘Oil-splashed noodle’, meaning that the ingredients are blanched in sizzling oil first and pour onto the noodles, mix well and walla, a plate of intense al dente pleasure, a vegetarian comfort food!

The two cold plates we had included one vegetable dish – a shredded potato salad with a touch of sweet vinegar seasoning; the other was a plate of thinly sliced,  mildly spiced tendon stripped from the outer layer of the shank, Henry said this would be a cold beer’s best company!

Alaska King Crab – Eat like a king in Chinese restaurants

Stephanie Yuen

We see them, those big claws, boiled and served cold, at buffet tables.  But in most Chinese seafood restaurants in Metro Vancouver, the big claws are attached to giant Alaska King Crabs, which are still moving in the live seafood tanks, a must-have feature for all Chinese seafood restaurants.

Another short Alaska King Crab season is about to begin in Metro Vancouver, Weighing an average of 10 – 12 pounds, these king crabs can turn out 3-5 courses, a feast fit for a king for sure. Thanks to the communion Chinese meals, the king feast is perfect for sharing.

What are the 3 – 5 courses?  Thought you never ask!

Deep-fried Salt & Pepper Knuckles; Open-face claws steamed two ways: with fresh chopped garlic and with eggwhite and wine sauce; Baked coconut-curry rice in the shell and Sauteed San-mein noodle with the crab jus from the steamed claws. Each King crab course presents a different flavour and texture while each bite brings new sensation to the palate.  Once you try it, you’ll agree Alaska King Crab not only worth the price, it is also a divine gourmet experience.

Those who have not yet savour them, may I ask why?  Get a group of at least 8 people, so besides the multi-coursed Alaska King Crab, there’s till room for a plate of seasonal green, a meat dish and dessert. For 8 people, a 10 lb. crab would be ideal.  For 10 or more, pay attention to the monstrous king crab when the waiter brings it to your table to show you.

 My favourite restaurants for Alaska King Crab dinner:

Jade Dynasty Restaurant: E. Pender near Main, Chinatown. 604-683-8816

Sun Sui Wah Restaurant: Main & E. 23^rd, Vancouver. 604-872-8822

Ken’s Chinese Restaurant: Kingsway at Glen, Vancouver. 604-873-6338

Excelsior Restaurant: 6340 No. 3 Road. Richmond. 604-278-2616

Kirin Seafood Restaurant:  New Westminster @ No. 3 Road. 604-303-8833

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By: Stephanie Yuen

When my Korean friend told me about a small Korean restaurant with a name which meant ‘Symphony of Korean drums’ out in Surrey, and that it’s worth the drive, I decided to pay a visit.  On a sunny Saturday afternoon, my husband and I went for the drive along Fraser Highway; destination Willowbrook Mall area, where Buk Jang Do Ga Korean Cuisine locates.

I had no idea how big the Korean community was in this neighbourhood until we got there. Besides the iconic Hi-Mart, other Korean signs are visible everywhere. We found Buk Jan Do Ga nests away a few doors down Hi-Mart. The visage of the restaurant does not reflect half of the rustic beauty inside. I later found out it was the restaurant owner Mr. Bob Chung’s very own design and making. Even the wooden frame of carving of the band of drummers on top of the kitchen counter was hand-crafted by him. While printed menus are available, there are poem-like posters of menus on the wall.    

Wood tables and benches, built by Bob, put diners right into a Korean farmer’s dwelling. The wall papers resemble ancient style rice paper with Korean calligraphy, embellished tastefully with pieces of wooden peasantry items.  This is one very clean, simply homey-feel dining room that stands out from those in other Korean restaurants I’ve dined at.  I was definitely impressed once I stepped inside of it.

While printed menus are available, there are poetry-like posters of menus on the wall; where some non-familiar names of dishes are shown. “It’s my dream to introduce to the folks here what authentic Korean cuisine is really like.” The very fervid but humble Bob explained, “Here, every dish has its own distinct flavour. We use seasonal produce, prepare our own marinates and spices. Everything is done in small batches to make sure the food we serve is as authentic and as fresh as possible.”

 The first menu item that caught my eyes was the Mung Bean Pancake.  Served with a Ponzu-style light vinaigrette sauce loaded with shredded raw onion and chopped scallion, the pancake was a flattened mashed mung bean patty mixed with Kimchi cabbage and tiny amount of ground pork, then pan-fried till golden. We enjoyed the between mushy mashed potatoes and grainy wheat texture and loved every bit of it with the onion and scallion.

Who could say no to beef ribs, especially sweet gingery flavour, manually tenderized short ribs served on an individual hot-grill pan? The bowl of Korean rice was naturally the best companion for the ribs.  The other beef dish, also served on an hot grill was the stir-fried slices with mung bean noodles and julienne green onions. The marinade for this dish was on the sweeter side and was very enticing.  Bob put a bowl of generously loaded soup using the same meat and ingredients just to show us the other way Koreans enjoyed the same style of beef. He also delivered a small plate of Cat fish logs sauteed in Kimchi and bean sprouts for us to sample.  “This is simple and cheerful country-style cooking – very hot, very appetizing, and very good with Korean rice.”  Bob assured.

 We were so full by then so the other dishes, such as the Potatoe Broth with Rice for 2 (dinner set) and the Assorted vegetable and sausage pot stew I had my eyes on would have to wait till my return.

 Buk Jang Do Ga Korean Cuisine

19539 Fraser Hwy (at Route 10), Surrey

778-278-0788

Opening hours: 12 to 12

Closes Mondays

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My apology for not updating my blog postings sooner, I’ve been spending the last few weeks talking to chefs and collecting recipes for a book I’m working on.  “Vancouver Cooks Asian”, a cookbook about Vancouver’s Asian food scene, their chefs and their recipes, will be published Spring 2011.

Fresh From Yew’s backyard to our dinner table

Talking about value, what about superb cuisine, great ambiance and top-notch service in a beautiful dining room?  I can’t argue Yew’s $35 3-course dinner is one of the city’s best deals. 

Bravo to Four Season Hotel that makes this a year round offering of B.C.’s finest produce, 7 nights a week. This month of October, wild salmon is featured.  The Roasted Sockeye I tasted the other evening was brushed with Romesco Sauce, accompanied by a bountiful bed of fall vegetables, crispy chick peas and brown rice.  Looking for texture and flavour balance?  In to my mouth were moist flakes with a nutty tease, hearty zucchini and eggplants, juicy red peppers and sweet peas; topped off with earthy rice! Hm…I should go back for more.

Yew also offers scrumptious Saturday and Sunday brunch from 11:30 to 2:30. If you go on Sunday, you may want to check out their wine list – a bottle of bubbly or wine is 50% off all day.  

Yew Restaurant Bar 604-692-4939  

www.fourseasons.com/vancouver 

Galloway’s – The candy store for foodies

On a Tuesday afternoon, I found myself inside Galloway’s Specialty Foods. I started off with the rack loaded with packets of herbs and spices, then aisles of flours and rice; wheat and grains; baked goods, health products, organic products, Asian ingredients, groceries; nuts and beans; noodles and pasta… whatever your cooking, baking and even beauty or health product making needs are all there. I saw odd products; familiar products, new products and delicious looking products as well.  Totally elated, a 20-minutes quick-grabber became a 45-minute discovery in wonderland. Needless to way, my shopping basket was full when I cashed out. 

 Dinner plan for the evening? Baked Salmon with Indian Spices, Quinoa with black bean salsa and Cucumber & Mung Dal salad.  (Recipes from The

Galloway’s Cook book, Volume One, available in store.)

So you ask; what is the secret behind a store that is 70 years old (since 1940) and still running strong? All it takes is a stroll inside the store and check out their websites for classes, tips and recipes.  Besides the Alderbridge location, Galloway’s just opened a flagship store with a production warehouse on Glenlyon, east of Boundary Road off Marine Way in Burnaby.   www.gallowaysfoods.com

By Stephanie Yuen

Vancouver’s Chinatown is the 3^rd largest in N. America, after New York and San Francisco, and is the root of our world renowned Chinese cuisine. Many agree Vancouver has the best Chinese food outside of China.  While Chinatown is celebrating its 125^th birthday, let’s go take a closer look. We’ll start early in the morning, so we can glimpse into how some of my favourite shops start the day. We shall start with Keefer Street.

At Sun Fresh Bakery, owner and head baker Danny comes in the middle of the night to make the dough and leave trays of them to rise.  Ray the baker is responsible for all the European style pastries, Ming and Jessica are the steam bun experts.  Everyday at about 5am, they arrive, turn the kitchen light on and start rolling and making the pastries and buns.  By the time the store opens for business at 8am, Ray has already turned in numerous trays of assorted baked items and golden egg tarts.  The two bun ladies, who make 1000 buns weekdays and 1500 weekends, will have fluffy white veggie buns, pork & vegetable buns, BBQ pork buns, bean buns ready to go.

The butchers at Sing Chong BBQ and Meat Shop are trimming off fats, portioning meats and preparing advance orders for delivery.  Aromatic and steaming hot roasted pork, spare-ribs and other BBQ items make their way from the kitchen at the back to the BBQ station to be hung and displayed. Look at that 300+ lb. whole roasted pig!

When owner Ken slides open the door gate at Chinatown Supermarket, deliveries are made, bins of vegetables and fruits are being organized.  The fishmonger at the back gets his seafood tanks and catch of the day ready.  There, a gentleman waits for his order – a big slice of lingcod.

Hungry?  Shall we sit down for some breakfast?

A few doors down from the supermarket is Maxim’s Bakery and Café (opens at eight), the restaurant upstairs would have greeted its first group of regular customers who come in for their morning coffee, tea or the mix yin-yang drink and a fresh from the oven cocktail bun, made-to-order breakfast sandwiches or a complete set of Hong Kong Style 3-course breakfast. Most of them are white or blue collar workers from the neighbourhood, others are early risers who enjoy having their first meal with the daily newspaper purchased outside the storefront. Let’s join them.

And when we’re done with breakfast, we’ll go visit Guo Wah Herbal Store (on main) and check out those interesting dried roots and herbs and go shopping in one of the fashion stores.  Before we leave, let’s go and taste some tea at Ten-Ren Tea & Ginseng House, our last stop will be off to Hon’s Wonton House (Keefer Street) to buy some noodles and dumplings.

For information on Edible British Columbia’s Chinatown Market Tour with Stephanie Yuen, please log on to www.ediblebritishcolumbia.com

For Breakfast Television clips on Chinatown Foodie: http://bit.ly/cvENB9

Other blog posting: http://blogs.btvancouver.ca/family-fun-in-chinatown