Words: Henry Yuen Pix: Stephanie Yuen
Chinese blog: http://taiyangbao.ca/author/henryyuen/?variant=zh-hans/
A recent wine-pairing dinner hosted by the Meyer Family Vineyards at Forage comported wine lovers to fully appreciate what terroir in wine-making was all about!
Meyer Family Vineyards of the Okanagan Valley owns vineyards in both the Naramata Bench and Okanagan Falls. Their philosophy; which they diligently practise is to concentrate on producing what is best for the terroir instead of casting a wide net to plant and use every varietal possible. As a result, the vineyards dedicate their efforts on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Proprietor Jak Meyer, an astute businessman with background in investment banking, understands and grasps the importance of quality over quantity. Different tiers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to best embrace and utilize what Mother Nature granted the two benches are their strongholds.
To wet our palate, we tasted the 2012 Rose along with the very tender braised octopus salad. The evening got more serious when a line-up of four different Chardonnays came on board to be sipped with the moist and flaky Pacific spring salmon with leeks, squash gnocchi and shrimp chowder sauce. They were: 2012 Okanagan Valley Chardonnay, the 2011 McLean Creek Chardonnay, the 2011Tribute Series Chardonnay and the Micro Cuvee Chardonnay. The wines, each with its own subtly-unique flavour and body, were there to demonstrate how different terroir produced diversed grapes, though they belonged to the same varietal. And of course, the detail orientation; timely observation and wine-making techniques of Chris Carson the winemaker, was the other key element behind these delicious Chardonnays.
The entry level 2012 Okanagan Valley Chardonnay is sourced from both the McLean Creek Vineyard and the Old Main Road Vineyard in the Naramata Bench. It is a crispy, uncomplicated Chardonnay which is fresh on the palate with a hint of apple sauce and warm citrus profile. The 2011 Tribute Series Chardonnay is 100% made from 15 year old vines in the Naramata Bench that is known for its distinct soil profile of clay and loam. The grapes were gently pressed and the light French oak treatment gave the wine the creamy golden colour. Clean entrance with refreshing citrus notes and peach aroma; and a hint of oak and buttery in mid-palate. This is definitely a signature Naramata Bench product. The 2011 McLean Creek Chardonnay made with 100% grapes from the vineyard in the Okanagan Falls. The winemaking technique is perhaps more or less the same, but the fruits here render its own character due to the different soil profile, elevation and slope angle. A creamy entry with hints of peach and honey, this Chardonnay benefits from the oak treatment but not enough to weight it down. Finally, the 2011 Micro Cuvee Chardonnay is produced only from the best juice worthy for the quality demanded of this tier. When a particular vintage is deemed not good enough; no Micro Cuvee will be produce. The aroma is of tropical fruits, citrus and a lovely peach note with good creamy mouth feel and proper weight and balance.
Next came the flight of four Pinot Noir to pair with The Geiderman Farms Pork Duo. The 2011 Okanagan Valley Pinot Noir was sourced from different contracted growers throughout the Okanagan Valley. The aroma is full of berries and black fruits. It is a juicy Pinot with a lighter profile with decent acidity. The 2011 McLean Creek Pinot Noir is 100% from the Naramata Bench with 10 months in 100% French oak to give it the structure and depth and is fumed with oma of black fruits; has adequate acidity and good balance. The 2011 Reimer Pinot Noir came from the vineyard in the Kelowna region. Using 100% French oak and 10 months in barrels, this wine has lots of depth, balanced acidity and fruit components. Luckily, the 2012 was considered good enough and Micro Cuvee Pinot Noir was produced for this vintage. With aroma of plum and berries, this Pinot Noir is smooth and well balanced, thanks to the 100% new French oak treatment. A decidedly Okanagan Pinot Noir that is jammy with sensual acidity with enough structure. This Pinot is cellar worth quality!